HMC Wasdale Classic Rock Meet August 2013

This weekend, saw HMC travelling to the heart of the Lake District for some classic rock climbing.

Ben, Martin, Steve, Rhiannon, Victoria and Diana were intercepted by Nat and Chris on the road to Wasdale Head. The campsite was full. It was by now getting dark and none of us fancied trying the National Trust campsite for reasons that don’t need spelling out on the internet and so we turned around and considered our options.  Given the size of our club hut (big tent), we didn’t think we’d get away with a wild camp by the side of the road so our hope’s weren’t high until we came upon the Old Post Office Campsite.

What a great campsite, only five minutes drive away from Wasdale Head but with far better facilities than the campsite there. The owners were very friendly and in future we’ll probably choose that campsite over Wasdale Head Inn.

Saturday saw the usual sprinkling of showers and cloud that you get in the lakes and we parked up at Wasdale Head and we set off up the valley aiming for Kern Knotts and then traversing over towards the Napes. Climbing as three pairs, Martin & Victoria, Ben & Diana and Steve & Rhi all enjoyed spectacular views as we climbed Needle Ridge which started right next to Napes Needle.

The climbing was easy and very rewarding as we made our way to the gendarme arête for the easy scramble finish.

Ben & Diana on the gendarme arete of Needle Ridge

Diana & Steve on the gendarme arete

After regrouping, we made our way around to Westmorland Crag to find a continuation up to the summit of Great Gable. Our initial choice of route, a loose looking severe, was quickly abandoned after the first pitch after Martin, Ben and Steve all sent loose blocks hurtling down the gully. (I believe it was Steve’s that hit the sheep – possibly Martin’s but definitely not mine.)

So we found ourselves climbing using our noses and trusting our instincts & finding our own routes through the now set in clag. I was thankful I’d decided to keep my Scarpa Manta big boots on as the rock became looser, more broken and the grass became wetter!

Feeling like victorian mountaineers we eventually arrived at the summit, had a quick chat and headed back down for hot showers, lots of delicious hot food and to be entertained by Victoria as she regaled us with tales of her diverse entrepreneurial history.

On Sunday we fancied a shorter walk in so we drove to Wallowbarrow Crag in the beautiful glaciated Duddon Valley.

Again purposefully keeping the grades down we were spoiled with dry weather. Steve, Rhi and Chris climbed the excellent Trinity Slabs while Ben & Victoria and Martin & Diana climbed Wall & Corner, all excellent low grade multi-pitch routes.

Later, Rhi & Steve climbed Digitation and Martin & Diana and Ben & Victoria climbed Trinity Slabs and speedy Martin and Diana snuck in Digitation too just before packing up (just before the heavens burst.)

We all agreed it was a fantastic weekend as we stuck into our top quality pub nosh before heading  home.

Glen Coe Meet July 2013

With a perfect forecast we set off, light in number (Martin, Rhi, Steve, Conor and myself) after work on Thursday. Meet organiser Ben was unfortunately poorly so couldn’t attend, but it did mean we all had a proper seat in Martin’s van… sorry  Ben!!

After  camping by the road in Glen Etive we set off for a long day on Buachaille Etive Mor doing a couple of linked classic routes – North Face Route (VDiff) on Central Buttress and Agag’s Groove (VDiff) on Rannoch Wall. Lovely climbing, not too difficult but really exposed at times and what a setting!! The weather was sweltering, so a well deserved swim was enjoyed in a great swimming spot down Glen Etive and another “wild” camp. I’ve never seen so many people enjoying a free night’s kip in my life!! There must have been hundreds of us spread down the valley.

Saturday, another scorching day, we made our way to Etive Slabs (Beinn Trilleachan). Conor and Steve set off up (and down and up…) Hammer (HVS 5a). Martin took Rhi and I up Spartan Slab (VS 4c),  6 pitches of brilliant slab climbing. More  swimming in an even better pool  on Saturday night followed by some haute cuisine camping nosh and wine courtesy of Waitrose!!

Sunday saw us driving to Polldubh Crags in Glen Nevis as an easy walk-in was needed. Conor and Steve enjoyed the 3 pitch Storm (HVS 5a) while Martin, Rhi and I took turns leading a few single pitch routes. This was followed by the final swim of the trip in the MUCH colder water at the bottom of the crags before the long drive home.

All in all, a really great few days, I wish I could come to more of them.

Craig